MALVERN

When Queen Elizabeth I made a point of drinking Malvern water in public it put the town on the map. Since then the rich and famous have visited to “take the waters” in the belief that its purity is the way to a healthy life. In fact royalty has played a big part in keeping the spa town in the public eye over the years, as Queen Victoria never travelled without Malvern water and the present Queen is said to have regularly drunk bottled water from the town until the factory producing it closed six years ago. Even today free flowing Malvern water is available to anyone who takes the trouble to look for it. 

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An ancient source

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Taking a stroll around Great Malvern town centre it wasn’t long before I came across one source, and I don’t mean in bottles in the local shops. From the figure of the Celtic princess Malvhina water from deep underground, filtered through the ancient stone of the surrounding hills, flows freely. And the locals still believe in the benefits of it. When I visited there were a number of people filling large water containers to take home rather than rely on their tap supply. Today the area is a Mecca for walkers and dog owners who travel from all over the country to enjoy the splendour of the Malvern Hills. Fortunately for us the hills formed the picturesque backdrop to the Colwall Park Country House Hotel where we stayed. Situated in the village of Colwall. the imposing black and white building dates back to 1904 and has a warm, cosy feeling to it and friendly staff who go out of their way to please. Recently it’s been undergoing a £500,000 refurbishment, with rooms getting the magic touch of celebrated designer Marilyn Le Grice. If you stay see if bedroom number 2 is available.

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More fizz

With its ornate bed, seductive chaise longue and acres of space it would certainly impress even the royal water drinkers mentioned. Colwall Park prides itself on being a dog friendly hotel and has even introduced  “dog beer” (a light meat stock drink) so while their owners enjoy a pint in the bar so can they. Two canine visitors I met there had come all the way from Oman - via Cheltenham. Brock and Fizz had been rescued from the streets of the Sultanate by owners Michael and Lizzie Loryman and brought with them when they came back to live in England - along with four rescued cats and a tortoise. Heart-warmingly these two are now pampered pouches after a tough start to life - Brock had a broken leg when he was found - and seemed to relish their stay at the hotel as much as their owners. When you have had your fill of walking in the hills head into Great Malvern for a look around, but be warned - it‘s very hilly. It’s not a town packed with big name shops but individual establishments like bookshops old and new, antique dealers and fascinating independents. Bordering the shops is the Malvern Priory - one of the largest parish churches in the country - which contains the finest collection of stained glass after York Minster. When you visit look out for the distinctive gas lamps in the churchyard - some of 80 still working in Malvern. At the back of the Priory is the Abbey Gateway which was built in 1430. Today it’s all that remains of Malvern’s monastery and now houses the town’s museum. But if you really have a taste for Malvern spring water there is a place where you can not only drink it in abundance but also bathe in it in both indoor and outdoor pools. 

Trousers off!

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The Malvern Spa is a 33-bedroom spa hotel which has been built next to the last remaining bore hole that’s used to extract pure Malvern spring water. A sister hotel to Colwall Park it’s just 10 minutes drive away and has gained an enviable reputation as one of the country’s leading spa and health clubs, offering the best in beauty treatment and fitness facilities. The multi-million pound complex is the only spa in the UK with a 20 metre 35 degree indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy pool, not to mention a superb, state-of-the-art gymnasium. Checking it out I was offered a complimentary male facial - not something I had ever considered. Imagine my surprise then when the therapist showed me to the treatment room and told me to lie on the heated bed and pull the towel over me after I had taken off my shoes, shirt - and trousers. Trousers off! For a facial? I did ask whether a facial in Malvern meant something different to where I came from but it seemed to fall on deaf ears. Apparently the idea was that with trousers on the heated bed could be too warm - but I still kept mine on.

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Dont mention the facial

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To be fair it proved to be a very relaxing experience which involved not only skin treatments but an enjoyable neck and head massage under dim lights with relaxing soft music playing in the background. And after a late New Year’s Eve night at Colwall Park the night before with dinner, a disco and casino session it was probably just what I needed. But I don’t think I’ll mention the facial to the lads at the male dominated gym that I go to - they just wouldn’t understand.

JUST before our pizza was served the bar owner asked us if we would like to move to a quieter table.

“

It’s just that Barcelona are playing tonight and the lads will be in to watch the match and it might be a little noisy where you are,” Fernando said considerately.

The  “lads” - all eight of them - were nearer retiring age than teenage years and while they did get excited at times it was all good humoured and gave us our first taste of small town life in Tias on Lanzarote.

A neat, orderly little community of low rise whitewashed houses and shops some five kilometres from the large resort of Puerto del Carmen Tias is not where you would select if you are looking for bright lights, discos and crowds.

But if you just want to chill out, unwind and meet the locals it

‘s perfect.

Previous visits to the island had seen us staying in busier resorts so this time we had decided to try something different.

We had popped into Bar 33 on a whim because - being November - it was dark by the time we had settled into our villa home on the outskirts of town and we wanted something quickly.

What we had not realised was that our dinner plate sized pizzas would be lovingly created from scratch and taste superb. Two glasses of house red proved to be impressively rich and smooth and cost 1.50 euros each, about a third of UK prices. If this is town life on Lanzarote bring it on.

Tias is a town where a number of savvy ex-pats and locals who have businesses in Puerto del Carmen opt to live for a relatively quieter life.

And it doesn’t get much quieter than the area around our villa home for the week, Villa Clara.

Clara is the sort of three-bedroom villa you want for a holiday but rarely find.

For starters it

’s just 10 minutes drive from the airport but located in an area where you never hear any aircraft noise. In fact you don’t hear any noise at all most of the time, apart from the odd dog bark.

Sitting around our heated pool - a real bonus in November as the evenings can be cool - the silence was deafening.

There were houses all around us so we didn

’t feel isolated but the perimeter wall ensured complete privacy.

From the fascinating cactus garden - all planted in the typical black ash of the island - we had views of the surrounding hills and the sea in the distance. The property was spotless and came with all the creature comforts of home like flat screen tv, dvd player, radio and wi fi, not to mention microwave and dish washer.

There were even welcoming chocolates on the hall table and an extensive grocery pack courtesy of the proud owners who also live in Tias.

Our November visit coincided with the strongly contested local tapas competition which saw bars and restaurants attracting residents from all over the island.

During the week-long contest each eatery creates their own special tapas and visitors go from one to the other to sample them.

Each tapas costs 3 euros - including a glass of wine - and the one which attracts the most votes wins, ensuring island-wide publicity for the creator and the chance for those taking part to win 200 euros to spend locally.

On the nights we were there the atmosphere was terrific, with groups of friends trooping from one establishment to another until they were either too full or too merry to continue.

The fourth largest of the Canary islands Lanzarote is is just 37 miles long by 12 miles wide. And while parts of Tenerife and Grand Canaria are dominated by high rise building Lanzarote, in the main, has avoided it.

It

’s an island of infinite variety with scenery varying from the moonscape-like Timanfaya National Park with its 36 active volcanic cones to peaceful bays and harbours as well as the island’s capital of Arrecife.

And even if you have never been to Lanzarote the chances are you will have seen it without realising it.

For film makers from all over the world have used it for location shots for movies of every kind.

Some 49 films have been shot on the island and it all started with One Million Years BC, which saw a voluptuous Raquel Welch cavorting around in a skimpy animal skin bikini on the stunning white beaches of Papagayo on the southern tip of the island.

Today Papagayo lies in a protected national park so it remains unspoiled but can still be reached by holidaymakers via a two kilometre rough road at a cost of three euros per car.

Despite its diminutive dimensions Lanzarote has more to see than most people will manage in a week so you have to be selective.

Apart from the areas already mentioned the underground lagoon of Jameos del Agua which is set in a volcanic tunnel is a must, and if you can catch it when there is a concert on so much the better.

Close by are the caves of La Verdes - best avoided if you have any claustrophobic tendencies as you are below ground for some time while you walk two kilometres at a slow pace in dim light.

In contrast the dramatic coastline of El Golfo with its pounding waves and windswept shore is invigorating.

We found numerous restaurants right on the water

’s edge for enjoying freshly caught fish while watching the sun set over the sea.

Despite previous visits to the island the little harbour of Puerto Calera had escaped my attention.

Just about five kilometres from Tias it

’s like a mini Puerto Banus, with designer label shops and celebrity yachts.

The attractive quayside area boasts bars and restaurants and is an ideal location to enjoy a cup of coffee in the sunshine while people watching.

Our last day on the island saw us heading for the capital of Arrecife. It

’s not a large city but there’s a good variety of shops and a surprisingly pleasant city-side beach.

After snapping up a few bargains we sought out the inland lagoon Charco de San Gines with its shore-lined cafes and restored fishermen

’s cottages which make pretty holiday snaps.

Half of the island

’s population of 115,000 people live in Arrecife so expect it to be busy.

Back at Villa Clara it was time to relax in front of the television before taking a gentle stroll into town for dinner at La Esquina, a friendly little restaurant where dressing up is unnecessary but the food is excellent and prices are keen.

Like Tias it

’s relaxed and laid back - just what you want when on holiday.

So the next time the stresses of life are getting you down and you feel like screaming 

“stop the world I want to get off” just pick up the telephone to Vintage Travel, book Villa Clara and chill out for a week or two. It’s the perfect remedy.

FACTBOX

To book Villa Clara or any other property on Lanzarote with Vintage Travel cal: 01954 261431 or see 

www.vintagetravel.co.uk

Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates year round 

flights to Lanzarote from Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Luton and Manchester airports.

For further information or to boo Monarch flights visit 

www.monarch.co.uk

For car hire in Lanzarote check out Carrentals.co.uk.

The company, which was launched in 2003, searches up to 50 car hire websites in around 20 seconds to find the best deal for you.

CANAL DU MIDI

IT was less a case of up periscope and more a case of down sun shade as we
cruised along the Canal du Midi, regularly encountering low hanging
branches.
Sailing down one of Southern France's inland waterways, glass of Minervois
in hand enjoying the view had sounded like my kind of holiday from the
outset.
The hardest task would be pulling the cork to switch from red to white as
we sampled the traditional wines of the region. Or so I thought.
Now while this is certainly one very enjoyable aspect of this type of
holiday there is a bit more to it than that. You also have to do some WORK.
But back to the beginning.
We flew into the tiny toy town airport of Carcassonne and were met by a
taxi sent by the boating company, Le Boat, for the 40 minute journey to
the marina at Homps.
There were six of us in the party - three couples - and even though we
could have had a six berth boat we booked a 10-berth Magnifique to give
everyone more space.
It meant that not only did we have a cabin per couple but also a bathroom.
The downside of this I discovered when I saw our boat. I had expected it to be large, but to a first time cruiser it looked enormous - like a canal version of a cruise liner.
How ever were we going to manage the locks and navigate into moorings amid other boats in this whopper?
But by that stage it was a fait a compli, so we loaded our luggage on board, checked we had the two mountain bikes we had booked and were given a lesson in the general workings of the boat.
Then it was weigh anchor - or at least untie the ropes holding the boat - and off we set on a crash course, I use the term advisedly, in boat handling.
Now I'm sure the instructions were clear, but there is just so much you can take on board in a single 30 minute lesson, so when the instructor said he was jumping ship before even showing us how to handle the first lock the look of horror on our faces must have been palpable.
And in fact over the next week we did have a few precarious moments mainly caused by the wind, which at times seemed to have made its mind made up that the boat was going to go the opposite way to which we intended.
I had foolishly assumed that, just like on a car, when you put a boat into reverse and turned the steering wheel it would go in the direction you were steering. But this type of boat doesn't. In fact, not having a rudder, it doesn't go in any particular direction except backwards and the first time you find out is when you are trying to get into a gap and turning the wheel like mad and getting no response.
But, like many a Canal du Midi mariner before us we coped - and had great fun doing so.
The region itself is beautiful. The banks of the canal, which was created in 1681, is lined with plane trees, so as you cruise you get a pleasant mixture of sun and shade.
Our Magnifique had two steering positions, one inside the main cabin and one on the upper, open deck.
Our June week saw blue skies for seven days so all the "driving" was done from the open area as we took it turns to play Captain.
The upper area also has seating for 10 people, a dining table and sunshade so all of our meals were taken al fresco as my fellow shipmates were keen to top up their tans while not missing the ever changing scenery along the canal bank.
You travel at around four miles per hour, a speed which allows you to unwind and watch the world go by, while not damaging the canal bank with your wake.
Turn a bend and there is suddenly a chateau in sight. Go on another mile and a small village or town looms up while Kingfishers and herons are a regular sight.
On this type of holiday France comes to you rather than you having to drive to it.
And while there are mooring points at the towns and villages we soon learned that we could stop virtually where we wanted.
When it came to lunchtime we often just pulled into the bank, drove a couple of metal pegs into the ground and tied up. What could be better ?
The canal itself varies in width but for the most part on our chosen route - from Homps to Columbiers - it was probably about twice the width of an English canal.
That meant passing other craft, either moored or coming towards us, was easy. Most of them were holidaymakers but there were also plenty of working barges. And the nice thing was that all, without fail, waived to us as they passed by or shouted bon appetit if we had stopped for lunch. Friendly crowd these nautical types
Getting to grips with our boat, number 476 (they don't have names) gave our holiday a completely different perspective.
While handling the boat is great fun you also have to take it very seriously. Forty eight feet of cruiser can do a lot of damage.
When it came to mooring or passing through locks we worked as a team. One steering and at least one on the bow and stern - that's front and back to landlubbers - to handle the ropes.
The trick is to put the bow in as close to the bank as possible and let your two rope men off so they can pull you in gently, making sure the strong wind which cuts across this canal doesn't catch you and whip you in the wrong direction.
The best advice we were given was from a German boating enthusiast who helped pull us into a tight berth between other boats at Capestang.
"Don't fight the engine. It's stronger than you. Just get close to the shore and let your friends pull you in," he said.
After that we grew in confidence and slowly improved.
Locks became easier and we even transited the 168 metre long Malpass Tunnel, the oldest canal tunnel in the world.
The tunnel also gave us the excuse we had been looking for to sound our ship's klaxon, to warn oncoming boats we were coming through.
Before setting off it's best to plan plan your route so you don't do too much cruising each day. After all you are on holiday and part of that is visiting the canalside towns.
Le Boat recommend no more than four hours per day, and that gives you chance to enjoy your stops.
The most enchanting one for us was Capestang, a charming waterside town with a handful of shops, some super restaurants and - on the day we visited -
a great local market.
Mooring there also gives you the chance to take on extra water and charge your batteries - at no cost.
Another was Ventenac Minervois, where we moored at the steps to the Chateau de Ventenac and then went inside for wine tasting and a tour.
The boat had to be back by 9am on the last Saturday of our holiday but that gave us plenty of time to fit in a half day tour of the spectacular walled and multi turreted town of Carcassonne before heading off for our 3pm flight home with some great memories.
So if you want a holiday with a difference contact Le Boat and try the Canal du Midi.
If you do I wish you happy boating, but remember - don't fight the engine.

FACTFILE
You can book a Le Boat holiday by visiting the website at www.leboat.co.uk

The company offers boating holidays in France, Germany, Italy, Belgium, Ireland, England and Scotland

TENERIFE

WHEN autumn turns to winter British holidaymakers’ thoughts inevitably turn to the Canary Islands.

As the resorts in Spain, Portugal, Italy and even Cyprus cool off the little group of islands in the Atlantic Ocean just off the coast of northwest Africa promise scorching temperatures without having to endure expensive, time consuming long haul flights.

Tenerife, the largest, has been welcoming Brits for generations and thousands go back each year.

Some of the longer established hotels on the island treat many of their returning guests like suntan-seeking versions of the prodigal son. for whom nothing is too much trouble. 

The ocean-front Barcelo Santiago on the south west coast, for example, which looks across the sea to La Gomera has one guest who has visited so many times they have planted a special tree in their exotic garden for him.

Returning numerous times every year for almost 30 years, sometimes for a three month duration, has given him celebrity status among staff.

Tenerife is one of those islands that very much divides opinions and certainly over-development has spoiled some areas.

But while busy resorts like Playa de Las Americas in the far south tend to be packed with modern, purpose-built hotels, shops, bars and nightclubs which attract thousands of visitors, there are still a host of small towns which remain typically Spanish.

Drive north from Las Americas along the west coast and you can find numerous such spots.

Puerto de San Juan, for example, has a sleepy little harbour where fishing boats lie peacefully at anchor and is overlooked by a tiny beach of black volcanic sand. There are no high rise buildings here just a small bar close to the beach so you can try a Canarian beer while soaking up the atmosphere.

Just up the road is the laid-back town of Alcala. Where you will find more locals than tourists and therefore are far more likely to hear Spanish than English spoken.

Continue along the south west coast and you arrive at yet another traditional town, Puerto de Santiago, where whitewashed buildings sit high on the hillside and spread down to two black sandy beach below - one on each side of the town.

Many of the higher level shops are more traditional while those which border the longer of the two beaches are more modern establishments.

Follow the cliff path from the town and you come to the Barcelo Santiago with its prime position on the headland.

This four star property is deceptively large as only the main building is visible from street level but other wings are built onto the cliff face, with the lowest rooms at sea level looking out over the path which follows the shoreline.

Despite being able to accommodate 900 people it’s almost always full thanks to a long established reputation for quality. 

Despite its capacity, however, its extensive grounds easily dissipate guests leaving a feeling that it’s never over crowded.

From its terraces there are views to the magnificent 800 metre high cliffs of Los Gigantes, a location early island residents thought marked the end of the world.

Most rooms have sea views and if you are a sun worshipper you can even book suits which have huge balconies which extends around two sides of the building so you get the sun from dusk until dawn.

Staying at the Barcelo means you can reach the port of Los Gigantes easily by coastal path or by car and once there take the opportunity to go whale and dolphin watching just off the coast.

Each day boats set out from the tiny harbour to view the resident pods of bottlenose dolphins and short-finned pilot whales which can bee seen almost daily.

Drive north from the hotel and as you start to climb the temperature starts to fall.

As you reach Santiago del Teide at 1,00ft above sea level, there’s a real nip in the air. The town sits on the location of the Valley of Santiago which marks the divide between the dry, warm south and the cooler north.

Geographically it’s not too far from the holiday resorts on the coast but scenically this beautiful rural landscape is a million miles away, being untouched by mass tourism.

The valley is also the site of the last volcanic eruption on the island in 1909.

Nearby lies the road the national park and the volcanic mountain of Teide, a must for first time visitors to the island.

FACTBOX

.For more information on Barcelo Santiago visit 

www.barcelosantiago.com or call +34 922 860912

:

Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates flights to Tenerife from most regional airports. Visit www.monarch.co.uk

MONTREAL .

ONE City two languages.

That's laid back yet sometime in your face Montreal. 
Attempt to speak to anyone in a shop or bar and you could get a reply in either French or English- although French is definitely the dominant language. 
It's a bit of a culture shock to find the person who addresses you in perfect French with an accent that would not be out of place in Paris can suddenly switch to English with a strong Canadian accent when they realise you are from the UK. 
Look at the signs in Montreal and it's Rue rather than street and you almost feel you should be paying in Euros rather than Canadian dollars. 
But it's a city that has a warmth to it and if you speak to residents they are fiercely proud of it and of how different it is to the rest of Canada. 
It is certainly a city that has a lot going for it and there is a lot to see. I spent two day there and barely scratched the surface.
The city is divided into a number of distinct districts. The old town, the downtown district, little Italy and China town all have their own characteristics. 
In the old town, definitely my favourite, you have cobbled street, boutiques, art galleries and a plethora of cafe and restaurants with terraces to enjoy the hot summers the city enjoys. 
The number of decorated horse drawn carriages in various colours all add to the city's charm as they take visitors around to see buildings which reflect the periods of both the English and French dominance. 
There was a time when the old town virtually closed down at night as visitors headed back to their hotels, mainly downtown.
Then it was decided to turn some of the stylish industrial and commercial buildings in the old town into boutique hotels and it brought new life to the evenings in this part of the city. Now these very stylish establishments attract A-list stars from all over the world. 
Each boutique hotel has it own character and each is unique. Collectively they now offer 7,000 room in the old town. 
The city started life in 1642 when French colonists anxious to educate the "savages" started the colony of Ville Maria, although the indigenous Indians had been there for some 4,000 years prior to that. 
The market in beaver furs was one of the main assets at the time and the character of the Mad Hatter was created from this period because hat makers used to drop the beaver skins into mercury to ensure they held their shape. Many of those who worked in the trade for long period suffered from the effect of the mercury - some going mad. 

The city is one of contrasts but is also one with a strong community spirit. It is said to be Canada's festival city and there is something going on all the time to ensure that the locals - many of whom live in apartments - have more opportunity to socialise. 
Like the French the residents of Montreal love food and like their Gallic cousins tend to linger longer over it. Today there are some 5,000 restaurants in the city. 
An institution downtown is Schwartz's, where they have been serving smoked meats since 1928. 
The beef is marinated for 10 days, smoked for eight hours and then steamed for three hours until it is tender enough to melt in your mouth. 
Every day - no matter what the time - there is queue of customers waiting to get served in a establishment which has changed little over the years. And the speed with which the staff slice the beef with a huge knife is a wonder to behold. 
One lesser known aspect of Montreal is that it is Canada's animation city. Numerous animated films have been made here - like Toy Story and Jurassic Park. 
For sightseers the Basilica of Notre Dame is a must. 
Getting around Montreal is easy thanks to it Metro system which runs under the bulk of the city. There is also a city beneath the ground linked by the Metro where it's said you can get everything except buried. Montreal gets some severe winters and the Underground City ensures people can shop and socialise even in the harshest of winters. 
What I found strange was that the Metro, which is exceptionally efficient, uses pneumatic tyre like a car, so noise levels are much lower than on London's Tube. 
This truly is a city to explore and one well worth getting under the skin of. 

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

AS the Boeing 757 came in to land at Sal International Airport I go my first glimpse of the landscape of one of the newest destinations for UK holidaymakers. 
Until then I, like a lot of other first time visitors to The Cape Verde Islands, was unsure of what to expect . 
Palms, plantations, forest or a more harsh environment? 
In effect the landscape looks like the Canary Islands before building work started in earnest. There are few trees just mile upon mile of desert landscape fringed with pure white beaches and the pounding Atlantic Ocean. 
It’s situated some 372 miles off the coast of West Africa with the nearest country being Senegal, and during my week there in May the thermometer stuck to a steady 24 degrees but a coastal wind - reminiscent of that which prevails in Fuerteventura - made it feel cooler at times. 
It rains just two or three days each year so you are guaranteed sunshine although that wind means you need to take an extra layer with you for evenings. 
Sal is one of 12 islands in the Cape Verde group and most of the island is still virgin territory. 

And as it is reached in just six and a half hours from the UK it is not considered a long haul destination - a bonus for package tour operators like Thomson Holidays who don’t have to overnight their air crew there. 
The bonus from the visitor’s point of view is that you don’t need inoculations or malaria tablets, it’s politically stable and is not in a tornado or hurricane zone. 
As it was formally a Portuguese colony the official language of Cape Verde is still Portuguese, although children learn three or four languages in school so quite a few speak some English. 
Measuring some 19 miles by 7 miles Sal is very much an island of contrasts. For while the landscape looks Canarian the towns reminded me of many I have seen in different West African countries. For some tourists it can be a bit of a culture shock but for others keen to break away from the Mediterranean resorts for the first time it offers the taste of adventure they are looking for. 
Wander into Santa Maria, one of the main towns in the south of the island, for example, and you will find markets selling a wide variety of beautifully carved African masks and hand made beaded necklaces while street vendors carry their wares in huge bowls on their heads to their “shops” - a section of pavement on a street corner. 
Not all of the local population have running water and electricity - but things are improving quickly, helped by the revenue from tourism. 
Close to the town along the coastal strip are some of the first hotels on the island as well as low rise apartment blocks which are springing up. Government officials anxious to promote tourism visited the Canary Islands and witnessed the damage done by too much development. Now building on any of the islands of Cape Verde is strictly controlled and nothing - except the brewery - is allowed to be more than two storeys. 
Development in the last few years has been rapid and tourism, while still in its infancy, has taken off and I couldn’t help thinking that the phrase from the cult film Field of Dreams, “If you build it, they will come”, was particularly appropriate to Sal. 
The size of Sal means you can do all the main sights on one tour - and it only lasts half a day. It’s well worth it, however, for it shows you the places you would never find alone. 
“Climb down here” our guide told me after we had bumped and rattled across a landscape fit only for Jeeps and goats before coming to rest on a rocky outcrop near the shore. 
“There’s nothing there except a dark cave,” I replied. “Trust me,” he said so I climbed down and stared into the darkness. 
Looking back at me was the beautiful image of a large blue sapphire - Sal’s famous Blue Eye, a feature no one could really explain. 
Back on the bus we headed for the island’s salt mine, housed inside a vast crater. Here you can float Dead Sea-like in a lake of hot salt water before showering off at a nearby restaurant and bar. 
Our tour continued to the island’s capital, Espargos, where a blend of old buildings and new shops and restaurants sit cheek by jowl. 
Don’t expect to be able to flex your plastic here, however. Cash is king on Sal - they accept the Euro - but to be honest there is not a lot to take home unless you want a bottle of locally produced rum. 
Cape Verde does have one other surprise up its sleeve - its sea life. Green turtles come ashore to lay their eggs in the sand dunes, an area out of bounds during the breeding season, and off the coast you can go whale watching. 
While I was there a group of tourists saw a pod of 400 dolphins and numerous pilot whales with their young. 
You can also fly to Fogo, one of the islands that is still volcanic, or the island of Santiago the government seat of the country. 
Cape Verde is still very much undiscovered but it won’t be for long. 
If you want to see it before the masses, go now. 

ARUBA. 

AS I unexpectedly slammed my brakes on a glance in the rear view mirror revealed a look of panic on the face of the driver behind. 

In my mind's eye I could see the $500compulsory excess on the hire car disappearing from my bank balance. 

But stop suddenly I had to or run over a 3.5ft long iguanas that had walked into the road and sat there looking at me defiantly. 

Locals had told me that there was normally no need to stop in such circumstances because the prehistoric looking creature would scurry out of the way of an approaching car. 

Sadly no one had told the belligerent looking lizard in front of me , and to carry on would have turned him into Iguana meat. 

Iguanas and various other types of harmless lizards are common place on Aruba - the little Caribbean island which lies just 15 miles off the coast of Venezuela. 

Measuring less than 20 miles by six at its widest point it's been popular with American tourists for decades but only in the last few years has really opened up to the British thanks to First Choice and Thomson.. 

It is , however, one of those spots which having visited people return to time and time again. 

The island is blessed with beaches of pure white sand lapped by crystal clear turquoise coloured water and has an average temperature of 82 degrees .It's guaranteed sunshine all the way, although you will get some short ,sharp showers. 

Aruba boasts full employment so crime is virtually non existent. 

Take two weeks at one of either of the two all-inclusive DIVI resorts on Druis Beach and you will be hard pressed to remember what day of the week it is. 

Both resorts are low rise, beach front properties separated by an expanse of snow white sand. And because they are sister resorts the facilities in each are open to guests at both properties, so you can eat in either. 

There is a superb gym looking out over the ocean, a water sports centre and even a huge rock climbing tower. 

Rooms at the Tamarijn face the ocean so that when you open your patio doors you step off your own private patio directly onto the sand. 

At the Divi on the other hand some rooms face the beach but other two storey blocks are built at right angles to the shore and the rooms are larger. 

The size of Aruba makes it easy to explore but to be frank there is not a lot of sight seeing to do. And in a perverse sort of way that makes it more relaxing because you don't have to be rushing off every minute to ensure that you see everything. 

If you wanted to you could do it all in a couple of days. 

For years one of the most visited sites was the natural bridge, a spectacular rock formation linking two bits of coastline. This collapsed in 2002 leaving the Arubians to promote its nearby but smaller and less spectacular sibling, the Baby Bridge. 

The Californian lighthouse - named after the ship of the same name which sank - on the north of the island is well worth a visit. The high point it's built on gives a panoramic view of the coastline as well as giving you the chance to see the most expensive residential part of the island, known as the Beverly Hills of Aruba. 

Aruba is an island built on coral and some 60 per cent of it is cacti. In fact in some of the poorer districts where people can't afford fencing you can see they have planted cacti to form natural boundaries around their property. 

A I drove around the island I couldn't help thinking that some of the cacti growths were so spectacular they wouldn't have looked out of place in a western. 

At the opposite end of the island there is Baby Beach - another white sanded shoreline which boasts some of the clearest waters and most colourful fish, ideal for snorkellers.At one time Aruba was home to the biggest oil refinery in the world - Exon - and the beach was only for use by the company's workforce. 

Today there is a much smaller refinery on Aruba and the beach is now open to all. 

The island now is totally dependent on tourism and while Dutch is the official language all Arubians learn several languages at school, including English so there are no language barriers.

Their own colourful language - Papiamento - is made up of nine different languages and is a fascinating lilt to listen to.

Some 120,000 people live on Aruba and 80 per cent are Roman Catholic. The official currency is the florin but in affect the dollar is most widely used by tourists.

The capital of the island is Oranjestad, a pretty little waterfront town with some of its older buildings in pretty pastel shades of blue, yellow and green.

Traditional shops mix with a plethora of modern jewellery shops but at the moment the pound/dollar rate means there are few bargains to be found for UK tourists. In fact the exchange rate makes you value the all-inclusive hotel deals all the more.

Aruba is a yet still an undiscovered destination for UK travellers but it won’t stay that way for too long.

With its guaranteed sunshine - it’s just 12 degrees above the equator - a variety of beautiful beaches and friendly people it’s the ideal spot to chill.

The registraion plates on all of the cars bear the slogan “Aruba - one happy island”.

I couldn’t have put it better myself

CASCAIS, PORTUGAL

I’VE got a shock for James Bond fans everywhere. 

Believe it or not the archetypical British spy wasn’t born in the UK at all, but in Portugal. In Estorial to be precise, at the Hotel Palacio. 

For it was there during World War II that, according to the Portugese, a batch of British spies were based, including Ian Fleming. Close by, at the Hotel Atlantico, the rooms were occupied by German spies. 

And in that environment of intrigue, adventure and mistrust Fleming created 007, based in part, I’m told, on a roguish character of the time called Popov, who was almost always seen in the company of two or three girls. 

The Palacio and numerous other hotels with intriguing pasts are still in evidence in Estoril and the neighbouring town of Cascais. And while the sense of intrigue has long since gone the area has managed to maintain a suave, up-market, upper-crust air Bond would have been proud of. 

There are no glitzy neon clad buildings or ear piercing discos in evidence on the streets of Cascais. Instead it’s more an area of genteel refinement with quality shops, pavement cafes and restaurants, attractive parks and some of the cleanest and best beaches in Europe. 

And the added bonus is that it’s within a 30-minute drive or train ride of Lisbon airport, not to mention the breathtaking city of Sintra. But more of Sintra later. 

Cascais and Estoril was the holiday playground of the Portuguese royal family, so perhaps that’s why the air of exclusivity that abounds set in. 

Estoril itself is small and centres on a large square area of parkland with fountains and is dominated by the casino, the aforementioned Palaccio Hotel and a seafront vista. 

The more tourist appealing town of Cascais, on the other hand, has far more to see, is more widely spread out yet still easy to get around. 

And the town’s authorities make it even easier to explore by providing tourists with bicycles free of charge. There are three pick-up points in different parts of the town and all I had to do was show my passport to be able to borrow one for the whole day. 

After a couple of circuits of the town I was off along the cliff top cycle path passing Boca do Inferno – an inlet and cave where the sea rushes in creating a massive roar as the water hits the rocks – and on to the golf/shopping development of Casa di Guia. 

Linking Estorial and Cascais is the long beach-hugging Paradao walkway, where locals and tourists alike enjoy evening strolls with stops at one of the many restaurants and bars as the waves break on the shore below. 

But I found there was nothing more pleasant than a walk through the elegant, narrow streets of the town itself, with its cobbled, waved-patterned walkways reminiscent of Brazil’s Copacabana Beach pavement. 

Tasteful shops selling artistic local products stand cheek by jowl with expensive designer shops showing off clothes that grace the catwalks of Paris. Fortunately tacky souvenir shops normally seen in Mediterranean resorts are conspicuous by their absence. 

And if you are into boats when you reach the waterfront it’s well worth a walk around the Cascais Marina to see the yachts big and small that are moored there. 

On the cliff top at the centre of Cascais town is the Citadel, which was built around the 16th century to protect Cascais Bay from invading ships. The decision by King Carlos of Portugal to make the Citadel his official summer residence in 1870 heralded the start of tourism proper for Cascais and today no visit to the town is complete without a walk around this mighty fortress, part of which has been turned into a five star hotel. 

And talking of hotels ours, the Albatroz, occupied the premier position on the clifftop on the edge of town. 

This tucked away, exclusive, intimate five-star luxury property offers a warm welcome from attentive friendly staff and a dining room that looks out across the beach and ocean in a setting it would be difficult to better. As you eat on the terrace the waves break on the shore below. 

When you want a change of scenery head for the hills. The hills of Sintra that it is, and its remarkable palaces, one of the most breathtaking of which is the Pena Palace. 

An all-day bus ticket found us at the gate of this remarkable fairytale edifice which sits atop one of the hills just outside Sintra. 

Created by the Prince Consort D.Fernando of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha over the remains of a 16th century convent, it’s one one of the biggest and most spectacular romantic fantasies of the 19th century. 

It’s surrounded by parkland with dense forest and lakes and that makes it all the more awe inspiring because as you turn the last tree-lined bend of the approach road it suddenly rises up before you in all its majesty, looking like something created by Walt Disney which can’t possibly be real but is. 

A tour takes you through the royal apartments and offices with their original furniture and gives you an insight into royal life at a time when modern ideas of smaller, more intimate rooms, showers and flushing toilets were just coming into being. Much of the priceless royal silver is still in evidence alongside antique furniture. 

A short walk from the Pena Palace is the entrance to the breathtaking Moorish Castle which was constructed some six centuries before it. It covers a vast area of land and some of the walls as well as the castle keep, the royal tower and other castellated buildings are still intact. 

From its mountaintop perch you can see the whole of Sintra below, which was the idea as it was built to protect the town. 

Sintra itself is a fascinating town but having visited the two palaces we simply ran out of time to explore it before it was time to catch the bus back to Cascais. Still that’s all the more reason – if we needed one – to head back to this refined, cultured coastline in the near future.